Elie Saab’s Spring 2012 Haute Couture collection impressed me. But the feeling that it left me with was a bit more complicated. On the one hand the range was simply fabulous – elegant, luxurious, exquisite – but on the other, it was too Saab, too traditional and I would even say repetitive.

Despite the fact the couturier is right sticking to something he can do really well, we have already got a little tired of seeing the same shapes again and again. Novelty is a good thing. And a few fresh ideas would change the situation to the better.

If we distant ourselves from the fact we have seen dresses like these in Elie Saab collections many times already and speak about the Spring 2012 Haute Couture range itself, we will say it is very beautiful (though ‘beautiful’ is probably not the right word here, it is spectacular!).

Pieces in Elie Saab Spring 2012 Haute Couture collection came in two lengths – over the knee (and puffy, in the style of the ‘50s) and floor-sweeping. Shorter dresses looked lovely and delicate. Gowns were chic and classy.

Most creations were made light and sheer, with plenty of incredible details. But there were several printed items which looked great but compared to other dresses were like an afterthought.

There was one piece in Elie Saab Spring 2012 Haute Couture collection that deserves special mentioning – the wedding gown. It came the last and marked the end of the show. And it looked fantastic. White in color the piece came with light rosy embroidery and embellished with sparkling sequins and pearls. Precious veil finished the look.

ELIE SAAB SPRING/ SUMMER 2012 READY-TO-WEAR COLLECTION

See the Elie Saab Spring 2012 Haute Couture collection in photos here:

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Despite the fact Valentino is not my favorite brand I can’t but admire Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri’s designs, especially Haute Couture ones, because these are always totally sophisticated, feminine, delicate and exquisite. Spring 2012 collection is very beautiful with fabrics so airy and diaphanous that up to 5 layers were used to achieve the ‘deep lightness’ effect the two designers wanted.

All dresses in Valentino Couture Spring 2012 collection came in white, nude and pale rosy and blue colors. Many came with lovely small prints which added a little glamour and cuteness to the looks.

Paired with printed flats Valentino dresses came in maxi and midi lengths all looking modest and elegant.

There were interesting tops over lacy blouses which were adorned with bows. And bows were also features on belts.

Some dresses in Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2012 collection were beautified with rich embroidery – all over a dress, on sleeves or skirts, or even blouses only.

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There are only three designers whose couture work I really admire – Alexander McQueen, John Galliano and Jean Paul Gaultier. Two of them no longer create due to the reasons you know, but one still keeps making those fantastic outfits that often leave us breathless. Jean Paul Gaultier’s Spring 2012 Haute Couture collection was wonderful. Inspired by and dedicated to Amy Winehouse it consisted of pieces which were feminine and colorful in Amy’s style and extravagant and chic in Gaultier’s way.

Models with beehives, beauty spots on their faces and dramatic eye makeup walked down the runway in dresses of the fifties era, tiny corsets and bodysuits, glitzy pencil skirts and simple shirts, stylish suits and sheer tunics.

PVC leggings, blazers which exposed bras and a lot of flesh, and dresses baring backs were showcased along with demure frocks, well-tailored coats and high-waisted pants in Jean Paul Gaultier Spring 2012 Haute Couture collection.

Jean Paul Gaultier’s accessories were amazing. Luxurious veils adorned with embroidery, fringe and lace, wide cuffs in a variety of styles, headwear with huge flowers decorating it, exquisite earrings and cute necklaces, foldover and clutch bags – all made Jean Paul Gaultier Spring 2012 Haute Couture collection even more complete.

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER SPRING/SUMMER 2012 COLLECTION

See all the photos from Jean Paul Gaultier Spring 2012 Haute Couture Show:

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It seems that now to become a ‘designer’ you just have to be famous for something, no matter what that ‘something’ is. Zahia Dehar, who is French Moroccan by origin, used to be an underage prostitute paid by footballers for her escort services. A few years later, today, she has showcased her lingerie collection at the Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week.

Zahia Dehar, who was just 16 when several football players who had slept with her were arrested and imprisoned, is now trying to make a reputation of a good and talented girl by designing lingerie.

The lingerie line was debuted at Palais Brongniart – the former Paris Stock Exchange and was organized as a colorful show. Zahia Dehar appeared on the runway too, modeling a sheer dress covered with flower petals.

The collection was rather diverse and interesting but there was hardly a common idea coming through it. Dehar herself didn’t design the couture lingerie. Outstanding masters including François Tamarin, Bruno Legeron, and Jean-Pierre Ollier did that for her. And photographer for the lookbook was Karl Lagerfeld.

Karl commented on Zahia Dehar:

She’s very French courtesan, like Liane de Pougy or the Belle Otéro.”

You can see Zahia Dehar’s lingerie collection showcased here:

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Giambattista Valli was born to design couture. I am not saying his prêt-a-porter collections are bad. They are fresh and interesting. But his couture ranges (two of them have been presented so far) are absolutely incredible. The one he unveiled for Spring 2012 left me breathless.

Giambattista Valli’s ballgowns impressed me the most. Pompous, luxurious and sophisticated at the same time these came as the climax of the designer’s Spring 2012 Couture show. Floral prints were amazing and the colors looked great.

Other floor length gowns were more demure but they were also chic and exquisite which automatically put them into the range of future red carpet choices. The drapery was outstanding and finished with golden flowers used as necklaces, and collars it created an incredible effect.

Just like his more sumptuous designs Giambattista Valli’s cocktail dresses and ensembles from the Spring 2012 Couture collection were clearly inspired by flowers which realized in a variety of patterns and lovely details that made the garments look interesting.

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I have to say it again: I loved Christian Dior Sooo much with John Galliano creating for it. Now with Bill Gaytten it has transformed, and that’s not the transformation I personally appreciate. It has become more demure and wearable that makes it quite profitable, but drama we loved it for has disappeared, both the drama of the show and the clothing. The first couture collection, designed without the touch of Galliano’s incredible genius, is beautiful, feminine and delicate… but isn’t it too similar to the Spring/ Summer 2012 range? Isn’t it too simple for couture?

Bill Gaytten, who has designed Christian Dior Couture collection for Spring 2012, says he has been inspired by works of the brand’s founder while working on the collection. He explained:

All the structure of iconic Dior, thanks to lots of fittings.”

Christian Dior Spring 2012 Couture collection abounds with dresses with cinched waists, see-through fabrics and beautiful floral prints and embroidery. None of the couture pieces come tight-fitting as in Versace collection. Instead, Gaytten focuses on full skirts, pleated sleeves, and smart drapery.

Floor-length gowns, especially dark purple ones, are definitely future red carpet choices (for a variety of glam events) while the sumptuous ballgowns (the red one is impressive!) will become hits at more important occasions like the Oscars.
What I would also like to mention here is the gloves – long and fab. They will be a great accessory to add to any fashionista’s wardrobe.

NO DRAMA OR PASSION IN CHRISTIAN DIOR SPRING/ SUMMER 2012 COLLECTION

MILA KUNIS’ DIOR CAMPAIGN RELEASED

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We have been waiting for this for over 7 years and finally Atelier Versace has returned to Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week. The return was triumphal. 16 models were standing on the stage showcasing the fantastic designs which Donatella was clearly very proud of.

The principle Donatella Versace used to create her couture dresses was still the same – to make dresses as tight as possible to accentuate the beauty of a woman’s figure. The corseted items came with sheer panels, gold metal insets, beads and plastic paillettes. The designer’s attention to details was incredible.

The color scheme of Versace Couture collection is not limited to grey only. It also includes bright red and yellow, green and gold.

Some dresses in Versace Couture collection come super short – in signature length for Versace – while others are floor-sweeping. There are also sexy bodysuits topped by jackets in the matching color.

The footwear in Versace Couture range looks even more interesting than the dresses. The shoes themselves are classic and elegant coming in the grey hue. But they are occasionally finished with special details reminding us of gaiters which make the shoes look sexy and unusual sometimes transforming them into thigh-high boots.

MILAN FASHION WEEK: VERSACE SPRING/ SUMMER 2012

SEA-INSPIRED VERSACE BAGS & SHOES FOR SPRING/ SUMMER 2012

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Rich colors, beautiful feminine designs and intricate detailing make the Fall 2011 Couture collection by Zuhair Murad unforgettable. Floor-length dresses look just perfect.

My favorite piece in Zuhair Murad Fall 2011 Couture collection is the floor-length asymmetrical nude gown all over covered in black embroidery. Looks really fantastic and will be a great choice not only for a high-class glam event but a quiet party as well.

There was a dress in Zuhair Murad Fall 2011 Couture collection that shocked me though (not in a bad way, but still shocked). It was the scarlet ensemble of a puff skirt with a train, and a full length bodysuit covered with embroidery. Not a combination you often see anywhere.

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The Couture Fall 2011 show was amazing though. Deemed lights, visual illusion of rain that has just fallen, and total glam of the beginning of the 20th century created the atmosphere of something very interesting to take place. And probably the idea was good as well because Karl Lagerfeld tried to show the full life story of legendary Coco Chanel.

The clothing showcased during Chanel Couture Fall 2011 fashion show was actually rather wearable. Tweed and velvet skirt suits trimmed with fur, embroidered and embellished with beads looked a bit dull but they had that attractive vintage feel we like. Besides, they are classic and can be perfect for many occasions.

Leather knee-high boots from Chanel Couture Fall 2011 collection looked lovely but those which looked like made of plastic weren’t good at all. And the fingerless gloves didn’t fit in the range. They would probably look more stylish if worn with something different from what Lagerfeld dressed his models in.

What do you think about Chanel Couture Fall 2011 collection?

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Of course Bill Gaytten didn’t work alone. He had a whole team of professionals to help him, including Susanna Venega as his right hand, Stephen Jones with his headpieces, Jeremy Healy on beats, Michael Howells with his set design, Pat McGrath on makeup, and Orlando Pita on hair. The Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall 2011 collection we have seen on the runway was the result of this close collaboration. And the result was interesting to look at. Being a fan of Galliano I was a little disappointed to see quite another vision of a Dior woman, who was always truly elegant and sophisticated. The new one looked stylish though but she was a bit disco-influenced.

The Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall 2011 collection was roughly divided into two major parts. The first included simpler shorter dresses with full tiered skirts, structural tops with elbow-long sleeves, and plenty of airy details made of organza, taffeta and gazar. The second part was a bigger show. Gowns were super long, with fantastic trains, pleats and play of color. The finishing outfit, and the most amazing, was a Pierrot, sad clown dressed in gown that was the best in this collection.

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• Christian Dior Collection 2009