our style guides and advices

October 14th, 2008
Posted by Veronica Valter

Plenty of celebrities are fond of collecting retro clothing now.

The sales are booming as never before. However, retro footwear is not so popular with collectors. Probably, it’s just a matter of time…

Retro babe

Some footwear designers have created their recent collections on the basis of vintage ones.

For example, in the early 2000s, , inspired by ’s Seventies’ platforms, produced a collection leading to a resurrection of the shoe designer’s career. Now de Havilland’s fantastic pop-art python-skin heels regularly sell for high prices at auctions.

Terry de Havilland platform shoes

Original by top designers of the past such as , and are also hunted down by collectors from various countries.

Audrey Hepburn

was photographed in vintage footwear, sparking great interest in the original models of .

caused a stir when she was photographed at the Helpmann Awards in Australia wearing a nice pair of vintage limited-edition Roger Vivier stilettos, studded with crystals.

Roger Vivier shoes

There are still plenty of retro available, many of them by iconic designers, for relatively little money.

You can buy a pair for half a price of your skirt or blouse.

Here is a list of retro designed by couturiers of the past. They surely deserve your attention and can be good pieces in any collection.

Salvatore Stilettos

Mid-fifties

Salvatore is famous for the quality of his craftsmanship and the extravagance of his designs. His stilettos were considered glamorous and a whole generation of Hollywood stars loved wearing them.

was one of those who preferred his heels, she owned 40 pairs.

From 1956, stilettos became much higher after the Italians started to strengthen plastic heels by running an aluminium spigot down the shaft.

Salvatore Ferragamo

Perhaps the most well-known pair of stilettos were the scarlet satin rhinestone-studded stilettos that became famous after starred wearing them in the 1953 film Gentlemen Prefer Blondes.

Gentlemen Prefer blondes

and Jane Russell show off their footwear in Some Gentlemen Prefer Blondes

In 1999 the original were sold at Christies in New York for $42,000.

It’s worth collecting them for they represent the glamour of a golden Hollywood age and just because they look beautifully and are perfectly made.

Pilgrim Pump

Early sixties

These were very popular with ladies in the early Sixties. They were flat and square-toed, designed to be worn with short skirts.

In 1965, Vivier’s series of Pilgrim pumps, as they were later called, complemented a collection of ’s Mondrian-inspired mini-dresses.

The became incredibly popular among duchesses and ordinary dolly birds as they looked nice and were comfortable and easy to wear.

Pilgrim pumps Vivier

That year Vivier sold over 200,000 pairs. His customers were the Duchess of Windsor and Catherine Deneuve, Jackie Onassis, and many other famous women.

, a shoe designer says:

Vivier’s spoke by themselves. He understood that a shoe has a bone structure and that has to be perfect. He covers his with beautiful embroidery and embellishment, but underneath it all is a perfect plain pump with perfect proportions – pure perfection.’

You can collect them for at least two reasons: the Pilgrim pump was the most imitated shoe shape of the decade and it is associated with the sophisticated chic of Sixties Paris.

Andre Ankle Boot
1964

In the early Sixties, such boots were considered to be fit only for old ladies. The Parisian couturier changed all that. His space-age ankle boots became extremely popular when they were shown in his 1964 Moon Girl collection. It was more than a sensation.

Andre Courreges anckle boots

The boots were comfortable, easy to pull on and off, in soft white kid.

However, soon got furious as some shoe designers, such as Kurt Geiger, Sacha and Ravel, started copying the boot.

He had to ban the Press from his shows for the next few seasons.

You can add them to your collection since many fashion pundits are tipping the Sixties for the next big retro revival, so get in first with some covetable originals, which also play a fascinating part in .

To be continued…

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